Briefly: Odessa

Odessa was a free port for centuries, very cosmopolitan, its modern version built in grandiose marble and limestone by Catherine the Great, which managed to survive Stalinist redecorating, I think because the city is honeycombed.






The famous Potemkin steps were built gradually wider towards the bottom, which makes them longer than they actually are when viewed from below, and look perfectly parallel when viewed from the top. I guess this means I am going to have to break down and watch that Eisenstein movie now.


Cathy makes a point of taking pictures of things coming out of her head, because that is the kind of thing that would drive her dad crazy.


The streets are lined with wonderful restaurants and shops. We people-watched in a square for a while.




Then we went for dinner and ordered stuff life this.


Smalets, it turns out, is lard seasoned with dill and garlic, frozen and sliced and served with toast.


The portions weren't as small as we thought they were going to be. This meal is a lot of the reason I got so fat on this trip.